The word tetra is Greek for “four,” and the eponymous NOMOS collection certainly lives up to its name. Every Tetra watch boasts a characteristic square case. The angular case is softened by a bright range of dial colors. NOMOS has periodically added new colors to the collection since its introduction in 2007. Highlights of the series include the Tetra Neomatik and the Symphony line, which was released in 2020 in honor of what would have been Ludwig van Beethoven’s 250th birthday.
Overview of the NOMOS Tetra
Tetra models stand out with their square cases and dials. Other defining features include Arabic numerals, central hour and minute hands, and a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock. There are a few exceptions to this standard form: The Tetra Duo, ref. 405, for example, does without a small seconds and the Tetra Kleene, ref. 492, and Tetra Plum, ref. 499, both have an additional power reserve display. The watch is available in a range of case sizes, color combinations, and with several different movements. Every watch, however, is remarkably slim. Depending on the version, the case stands between 6.1 and 7.3 mm high. With only 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft) of water resistance, the Tetra is only protected against splashes of water and is not suitable for swimming.
Hand-Wound Tetra Models
Each Tetra 27 model is 27.5 mm in diameter. Supplementary names like Karat (ref. 472), Champagne (ref. 473), and Duo ( ref. 405) denote different dial and hand color combinations. The ref. 401 with a white dial lacks an extra name. All of these watches feature stainless steel cases that are water resistant to 30 m (3 bar, 98 ft). Those with a small seconds dial are powered by the in-house NOMOS Alpha caliber. The Tetra Duo, on the other hand, features the Alpha.2 without a small seconds.
The Tetra 27 in Detail
If you’re a fan of watches with gold details, you should take a closer look at the Tetra 27 Karat. This timepiece features a gold-colored dial and hands, giving it a particularly elegant feel. The ref. 473 has a similar aesthetic with its champagne-colored dial, rhodium-plated hands, and orange second hand. The ref. 405 offers a unique combination of hues. It boasts a white silver-plated dial and gold hands. The Tetra 401, on the other hand, combines a gray and white silver-plated dial with cornflower blue hands.
The Alpha Movement
The hand-wound Alpha movement was NOMOS’ first in-house caliber. It has a power reserve of 43 hours when fully wound. The movement is outfitted with 17 rubies and measures just 2.6 mm thick. There is no lack of finishing on this movement: It has tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing, and NOMOS perlage.
Other Lines and Special Editions
Tetra Neomatik 39: An Automatic Movement
The Tetra Neomatik 39 is available with a white (ref. 421), midnight blue (ref. 422), or silver (ref. 423) dial. NOMOS changes the color of the hands and indices depending on the dial. The white version has black hour and minute hands, black indices, and blue minute track numerals. The Midnight Blue Neomatik features white hands and indices paired with contrasting blue minute track numerals. The so-called “Silvercut” version is paired with blue hands, black indices, and a black minute track. All three models feature a red second hand at 6 o’clock and a 33 x 33 mm case.
DUW 3001: The Neomatik Movement
The DUW 3001 is NOMOS’ in-house automatic caliber. At just 3.2 mm thick, it is an ultra-thin movement. The DUW 3001 is equipped with the NOMOS swing system, a proprietary escapement that permits the watchmaker to regulate the watch without touching the balance spring. The technology also allows for higher levels of efficiency and accuracy. The caliber features 27 rubies and boasts a power reserve of 43 hours. NOMOS regulates the DUW 3001 – like all of their movements – in six positions, making it an incredibly precise timekeeper.
The Colorful Petit Four
In 2018, NOMOS introduced four special edition Tetra timepieces: the Matcha, Azure, Pearl, and Grenadine. The names refer to the watches’ pastel dial colors: green (ref. 495), blue (ref. 496), pink (ref. 497), and red (ref. 498), respectively. These stainless steel timepieces measure 29.5 x 29.5 mm and stand 6.3 mm tall. Each is powered by the manual Alpha caliber. The indices and hand colors vary depending on the model. Each timepiece is available with a stainless steel or sapphire crystal case back, the latter of which gives you a clear view of the Alpha at work.
The Purple Tetra Plum
The Tetra Plum, ref. 499, is not a member of the Petit Four collection, but it is equally as colorful. As its name implies, the dial shines in a purple hue complemented by rhodium-plated hands. Unlike other Tetra 27 models, the Plum boasts a red and white power reserve indicator at 1 o’clock. This display is made possible by the in-house hand-wound caliber DUW 4301. This reference comes with a stainless steel case back, while the ref. 488 has a sapphire crystal case back.
In Honor of Beethoven: The Tetra Symphony
At the start of 2020, NOMOS introduced a new four-part series of special edition Tetra watches in honor of what would have been Ludwig van Beethoven’s 250th birthday. The watches are aptly named the Divine Spark, Ode to Joy, Immortal Beloved, and Fidelio, and each features a different dial color: copper, olive green, turquoise, and dark blue, respectively. These 29.5-mm watches are all powered by the Alpha caliber and are just 6.3 mm thick. While the Divine Spark (ref. 443), Ode to Joy (ref. 445), and Immortal Beloved (ref. 447) all feature golden hands, the Fidelio (ref. 449) is outfitted with rhodium-plated hands. Depending on the version, the indices are either black, gold, or silver. Each timepiece is available with a stainless steel or sapphire crystal case back.
The Berlin Set
At Baselworld 2014, NOMOS presented another four-part series of special edition Tetra watches called the Berlin Set. The version names – Clärchen (green), Nachtijall (dark blue), Kleene (turquoise), and Goldelse (gold) – are all reference to the unique dialect spoken in the German capital city. Three of the timepieces are powered by the hand-wound Alpha caliber, while the Kleene features the DUW 4301, affording it a power reserve indicator. Each movement is housed in a 29.5-mm square stainless steel case.
Bands and Accessories
NOMOS equips all Tetra models with high-quality leather straps. The Neomatik line features black cordovan leather straps, which are derived from horse hide and produced exclusively for NOMOS by storied American leather company Horween. The accompanying stainless steel clasp is designed in Berlin and hand-polished. Automatic Tetra models are delivered in a black leather box complete with an instructional manual and warranty.
Manual models – with the exception of the ref. 401 and ref. 408 – come on a light calfskin suede strap paired with a pin buckle. The two exceptions mentioned above are mounted on a Horween shell cordovan leather strap instead. These watches are delivered in a wooden NOMOS watch box complete with a warranty.
Prices and Performance
If you decide to buy a Tetra, you can rest assured that you won’t only have a very wearable watch but also one that is likely to retain its value. If you make a wise purchase and take good care of the watch, you can expect to get a decent price for it should you decide to sell at a later date. The most popular Tetra models from 2019 were the Tetra 27, the Neomatik, and the “Kleene” from the Berlin Set.
You can find a new Tetra Neomatik ref. 421 for around $2,700 on Chrono24, which is a substantial discount from its official list price of $3,860. The ref. 422 (Midnight Blue) and ref. 423 (Silvercut) cost about the same.
Prices for models in the 27 line are more varied. You can buy a new Tetra 27 Champagne (ref.473) for around $1,300, while the official list price is $1,960. The Karat (ref. 472) sells for around $1,400, compared to its official list price of $2,040. If you’re interested in the Tetra Duo (ref. 405), plan to spend around $1,150 on Chrono24 or $1,660 if you buy directly from the manufacturer. The ref. 401 with a white dial will set you back roughly $1,300, though NOMOS prices it at $1,980. Overall, you can expect to find NOMOS watches at significant discounts if you buy on Chrono24.
Prices for the Petit Four Collection
If you’re interested in buying a watch from the Petit Four collection, expect to pay the following prices: The Tetra Pearl (ref. 497), Azure (ref. 496), and Grenadine (ref. 498) all cost around $1,450 on Chrono24 in new condition. The Matcha (ref. 495) is slightly more expensive at just over $1,500. NOMOS lists all four for $2,080.
The Tetra Plum with a power reserve indicator (ref. 499) sells for roughly $1,850, though the official list price is $2,780. In short, you can expect to find most NOMOS models at attractive discounts if you buy on Chrono24.
Prices for Watches in the Symphony and Berlin Sets
The Symphony series first appeared in March 2020, making it the newest Tetra collection on the market at the time of writing. The official list price for all four models is $2,080; however, as of April 2020, we were able to find the Divine Spark (ref. 443), Ode to Joy (ref. 445), Immortal Beloved (ref. 447), and Fidelio (ref. 449) for around $1,400 each.
You can still come across mint-condition timepieces from the Berlin Set, which was introduced back in 2014. If you opt for the Clärchen (ref. 489), expect to pay just over $1,600. On the other hand, if you’re interested in the Goldelse (ref. 491), make sure to set aside closer to $1,900. The Kleene (ref. 492) is the most popular in this set and sells for around $2,200.
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